KNOTS

Knots. They accomplish a variety of tasks. As seen above, a simple overhand in a food bag keeps the goodness in and the badness out. They continue to keep me safe on snow, ice, and rock as I pursue objective after objective. Heck, they've even helped to maintain my sanity during a long cowering session in the tent.

Tying off the 65th bag of butter earlier today, I couldn't help but notice just how simple, yet important, a knot really is. Tomorrow we head into the field. And, for 30 days the knot will once again be a best friend.

Here's to a month of recognizing the small things in life. I encourage you to do the same.

Riley says: "Enjoy the little things, for one day you may look back and realize they were the big things."

ASADO

Asado is a term used to describe a range of barbeque techniques or the social event of hosting or attending a barbeque in Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Chile, and southern Brazil.

The asado. It's huge here in Chile. Night two of our Patagonian living, we found ourselves at an asado. Typically, there's a variety of meat prepared, as well as a few choice vegetables. And the Chileans? The Chileans know their meat. It's never burned, always tender, and unbelievably flavorful. Thirty-five minutes from now I'll be attending my second asado. One of my goals in traveling down here has been to embrace the local foods in whatever area we're in. So far, it's been delicous!

Riley says: "A thing is right when it tends to preserve the integrity, stability and beauty of the biotic community. It is wrong when it tends otherwise."

ANOTHER DAY AT THE OFFICE

It happens every course... Gear is exploded into what seems like an endless space and then carefully organized into a form fit to live within a confined space.

One of the most popular sayings around the NOLS community when it comes to packing is, "ounces equal pounds and pounds equal pain." It's commonly used when students bring some ridiculous item they just can't live without. I ride the fence on this philosophy. Ounces do indeed equal pounds but they also equal comfort and warmth. And so, each time I pack, the same questions are posed:

What layers should I bring?
Do I really need this?
How much sunscreen should I pack?
What would one Snickers bar per day weigh for this course?

What's my main concern for this upcoming mountaineering course? My hand layers. How many pairs do I need? Which ones should I bring? Gloves? Mittens? How cold will it be? Do I need 2 pair? 3 pair? 4 pair?

Every time I head into the field I test something different to see how it works... This process is never-ending, spontaneous, and in reality, quite fun. We have four more days until we're field-bound... I should be able to decide before then right?

Riley says: "Don't agonize, organize."

DEFENSE *clap, clap* DEFENSE *clap, clap*

hantavirus |ˈhantəˌvīrəs|
noun
a virus of a genus carried by rodents and causing various febrile hemorrhagic diseases, often with kidney damage or failure.

The term "biblical proportions" has been used multiple times in the last few days to describe the number of mice within Chile. The events leading up to this are as follows:

1. Kila, a bamboo-like plant, blooms, flowering all over the county. This is an event similar to a 100 year flood cycle.
2. After the Kila blooms it drops seeds on the ground.
3. The mice population explodes with the increase in food.
4. The mice eat all of the seeds and then they start to look for other food sources.
5. They travel in massive hoards eating everything in sight, even vehicle tires.
6. As they cross the roads they are run over. The starving mice start to feed off of the smashed mice, which are then smashed, and so on, and so on.
7. The areas where the Kila bloomed are now hantavirus hot beds.
8. Typical NOLS operating areas are greatly reduced due to hanta-infected areas.
9. Once we're above 1,000 meters we're safe. There are no mice that high.
10. Thank a higher power we're mountaineering and not hiking!

Riley says: "The best defense is a good offense."

AND SO IT BEGINS...

We kicked it all off this morning. Briefing for courses is always a bit of a chaotic process. You meet with lots of folks, fill out lots of paperwork, and try to ensure you're not forgetting anything that could be detrimental to a course's success. Today is even more exciting as we're briefing not only for our first course, but also for our second, which starts in early November. Let's just say that on days like today, the checklist is a person's best friend.

Riley says: "Nobody can go back and start a new beginning, but anyone can start today and make a new ending."

HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY!

As it turns out... September 18th is Chilean Independence Day. Cait and I joined a couple of in-town staff to attend a celebration near Coyhaique. It was fun to experience another nation's traditions and see just how proud the Chilean people are.

El Gauchito was a game that was being played by the local Chilean men. It's similar to the game of horse shoes but instead of shoes, you throw a cow's hoof capped in metal plates. After ten minutes of watching, we still couldn't figure out what the rules were. I particularly enjoyed watching the men talk trash to one another in between throws.

Riley says: "You have to do it yourself, no one else will do it for you."

BIENVENIDO!

We made it to NOLS Patagonia just outside of Coyhaique, Chile! This is our home for the next week or so until we go into the field. Not a bad view eh?

Riley says: "Love of beauty is Taste. The creation of beauty is Art."

ARTESANO

Moving on foot has always been my favorite mode of travel for seeing new places. It's slower, I have genuine experiences with my surroundings, and the people watching only lures me in more. Argentina and Chile are no exception. I've especially enjoyed our strolls through artisan areas like the one above. One thing is for sure, the people down here produce some beautiful crafts.

Riley says: "No great thing is created suddenly."

CHO-CO-LA-TAY

From South America

Chocolate is big in Bariloche. With a stroll down Calle Mitre (Mitre Street), you'll easily pass fifteen different chocolate shops in less than a kilometer. And, in the spirit of experiencing all we possibly can on this southern journey... We couldn't help but indulge.

Riley says: "I feel that the greatest reward for doing is the opportunity to do more."

CERRO CAMPANARIO

From South America

A short bus ride from Bariloche provides access to what has been called the "5th Best View In The World", Cerro Campanario. After another onslaught of Spanish, Cait and I deemed it appropriate to go see this wonder for ourselves.

At the base of Cerro Campanario one will find an aerosilla (chairlift) and a trail disappearing into the woods. We opted for the trail and ascended through a variety of beautiful, Argentinian vegetation.

At the top? It's gorgeous. You can literally see in every direction and you're surrounded by mountains, lakes, peninsulas, and trees as far as the eye can see.

Our take on its claim to fame? It's beautiful no doubt, especially on a clear day. But, it would be more aptly titled, "5th Best View In The World"*.

* Complete aerosilla access, el restaurante, y banos.

Don't believe us? Come see for yourself. We'll be here until March!

Riley says: "Time and space; time to be alone and space to move about. These may well become the great scarcities of tomorrow."

PERFECTO!

From South America

Spanish lessons are officially underway! Today I spent six and a half hours building the foundation of what I hope will become the Spanish language, coherently flowing out of my mouth.

And, I can't think of a better way to end the day than a walk along the beautiful, Bariloche water with the most amazing girl in the world.

Riley says: "Make your life a mission, not an intermission."

BARILOCHE BREAKFAST

From South America

Zucaritas made with real sugar, a carton of soy "juice" (as they call it down here), and a plastic bag of drinkable yogurt. Delightful!

Riley says: "Sometimes the littlest thing can bring about the biggest smile."

BARILOCHE BY BUS

From South America

The bus system down here is incredible. With less than $30 and 7 hours of our time, we're in Bariloche with one day to spare before Spanish school begins. I found the ride to be particularly enjoyable for three reasons.

1. It was slow and slow meant scenery. You can see so much more on the ground!

2. It's comfortable. I literally slept better on that bus than I have in months. I told Cait I wanted to buy tickets for two more days just to catch up on lost sleep.

3. The bus played music videos from the late 80's and early 90's for over four hours of our journey. It was like stepping back in time. Here's just a sample of the greatness, recorded for your reflective pleasure:

• Poison - Something To Believe In
• Stevie Wonder - I Just Called To Say I Love You
• Eric Clapton - Tears In Heaven
• Air Supply - The One That I Love
• Cindi Lauper - Time After Time
• Spandau Ballet - True
• Whitesnake - Is This Love
• Whitney Houston - I Will Always Love You
• Journey - Lights (When The Lights Go Down In The City)
• Richard Marx - Right Here Waiting For You
• Phil Collins - Take A Look At Me Now
• Bryan Adams - (Everything I Do) I Do It For You
• The Rolling Stones - Angie
• Berlin - Take My Breath Away

More from Argentina to come soon!

Riley says: "There are no failures; just experiences and your reactions to them."

PATA...GOING...GOING...GONE!

It's official! After nearly 24 hours of travel, four flights, a destroyed backpack, and a bus ride, we're here. Patagonia here. The next 5 months here. Here now, in Puerto Montt.

Tomorrow, we'll take a 7 hour bus ride to Bariloche, Argentina to hone our Spanish skills for a week. Hone is more apt term for Caitlin, who has a firm, firm grasp on the language. As for me? I stumbled over myself trying to buy three chocolate bars earlier. So, I've got some work to do.

Yet, I'm here. I'm in South America. I'm a place that's always intrigued me. I can't communicate with anyone coherently, with the exception of Caitlin, but that feeling is an empowering one.

Stay tuned.

Riley says: "Sometimes you don't know what you're missing until you reach out to touch it."

A GRAND OL' TIME... LITERALLY

Darcy, Caitlin, and I atop the Grand Teton having just completed the Owen Spaulding route after rain, thunder, and lightning shut us down.

Riley says: "What a grand thing, to be loved! What a grander thing still, to love!"